Rug Touring in Turkey: Part I

  • Istanbul
  • Grand Bazaar

    Grand Bazaar owned by Zakei Opcin and Murat Ayhan

  • Cocoon

    Cocoon owned by Seref Ozen in the Arasta Bazaar

  • Antique Textile Conservation

    Antique Textile Conservation repair facility

  • Antique Textile Conservation 2

    Antique Textile Conservation repairs

  • Ephesus

    Our group at the ancient Greek/Roman city of Ephesus that is one of the Seven Wonders of the World

In the months of May and June (2012), Ellen Amirkhan and I led a group of Master Rug Cleaners to Turkey where we saw the cultural highlights of the country and, in particular, rug weaving (and rug shopping). 

The trip really was a once-in-a-lifetime journey, as several key individuals were available to join us and we were able to experience a lot.


Rug Touring in Turkey: Part III

  • Turkey Part 3 #1
  • Turkey Part 3 #2
  • Turkey Part 3 #3
  • Turkey Part 3 #4

This is the final chapter of the Master Rug Cleaner Tour of Turkey. We saw the main tourist destinations of Istanbul, Izmir, Ephesus and Cappadocia and visited the rug weaving, dyeing and finishing facilities of Woven Legends. (Editor’s Note: See the August and October issues of ICS for Parts I and II, respectively.) We continue by chartered bus to the far eastern border of Turkey. 

Three of the ladies on the tour were of Armenian descent and wanted to visit the villages where their grandfathers lived as well as see some of the iconic sites from Armenian history.  


Rug Touring in England

  • Tour Group

    The tour began after the Master Rug Cleaner course in Wales with 15 in attendance

  • Windsor Castle

    A private tour of Windsor Castle, viewing carpets in the State Apartments, the incredible interiors and Castle grounds.

  • Pierre & Laurence De Wet

    Rug plant of Master Rug Cleaners Pierre & Laurence De Wet in Cambridge 

  • Melvyn Thompson

    Melvyn Thompson, The Museum of Carpet and taking The Carpet Walk

  • Victoria Carpet Mill

    A private tour of the Victoria Carpet Mill 

  • Ardabil Shrine

    Ardabil Shrine of the tombs of Sheikh Safi and Shah Ismail in northwest Iran 

  • Ardabil Carpet

    Ardabil Carpet at the Albert and Victoria Museum


This past May (2014), Certified Master Rug Cleaner hosted a second rug and cultural tour to the United Kingdom. (Our first tour was to Turkey in 2012, which you can read HERE)

The tour began after the Master Rug Cleaner course in Wales (Image 1) with 15 in attendance. The tour theme was “Carpets, Castles and Cathedrals.” We started our adventure with a private tour of Windsor Castle, viewing carpets in the State Apartments, the incredible interiors and Castle grounds (Image 2).

Our next stop was the rug plant of Master Rug Cleaners Pierre & Laurence De Wet in Cambridge (Image 3). We had lively discussions on marketing ideas and saw how they operate an English rug wash facility.

Then it was on to Kidderminster for two great days visiting The Museum of Carpet and taking The Carpet Walk, which was led by our old friend Melvyn Thompson (Image 4). 

Ellen Amirkhan found valuable archives relating to the Kidderminster woven carpet industry all the way in Dallas, Texas. How she found them is a story for another day, but returning these documents to The Museum of Carpet won a lifetime friendship with Melvyn Thompson. He, in turn, pulled some strings so that we were able to have a private tour of the Victoria Carpet Mill (Image 5). There, we were able to see one of the few surviving mills in the Kidderminster area.

Our next stop was Halie Den Oriental Carpets in Bath. This antique rug shop is owned by Master Rug Cleaner Craig Bale and gave the group a chance to do a bit of shopping. We could not be on the Salisbury plain and miss seeing the iconic Stonehenge and Salisbury Cathedral.

We also visited Wilton House, a country manor along the lines of Downton Abbey – but with a carpet connection. This is the family home of the 9th Earl of Pembroke, who in 1720 smuggled two Huguenot carpet weavers into England. This event was instrumental in the development of the Wilton woven carpet industry in the UK. The house has remained in the family since 1544.

Our private bus next took us on to London for the close of our trip. Our main rug event was visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum to see the Arbabil Carpet.

If you have attended a rug-training course, the Ardabil Carpet probably was a brief topic of discussion. It is the very interesting story of how a 500-year-old rug (and its twin) have survived the centuries and still are in reasonably good condition.

In 1539, a pair of rugs (or carpet, i.e. a large rug) was woven for the Ardabil Shrine of the tombs of Sheikh Safi and Shah Ismail in northwest Iran (Image 6). Today, they’re known as the “Ardabil Carpets.” They were placed side-by-side in the shrine. In 1882, an earthquake caused the roof of the shrine to collapse, damaging the rugs. The rugs were then purchased in Iran by Ziegler & Co., a Manchester, UK firm involved in the carpet trade. The pair of rugs was taken out of Iran to Istanbul where one rug was used for extensive repair on the other. The result was one complete carpet and one with no border. The smaller carpet is now in the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, a gift of John Paul Getty the oil magnet. The London Ardabil carpet hung on the wall in the V&A for many years. In 2006, the Museum created an extraordinary case in the centre of the gallery so that the carpet could be seen as intended, on the floor. To preserve its colors, it is lit for 10 minutes on the hour and half-hour. (Image 7)

The Ardabil Carpets represent the Golden Age of Persian rug weaving. It is amazing they have survived almost 500 years of history, as they were woven about the time Michelangelo was painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

At this point the tour ended with some MRC’s staying on for a few more days in London.

Our next planned tour will be back to Turkey in 2016. See you there! 


Rug Touring in Turkey: Part II

  • Hot Air Balloons
    Hot air balloons over Cappadocia
  • Silk Rug Production Exibit
  • Woven Legends
    Woven Legends’ rug weaving operation
  • CHemical Wash
    Chemical Wash
  • Pile Sheared
    The pile is sheared
  • Woven Legends 2
  • Woven Legends 3

We began our most excellent Turkish adventure with rug shopping in Istanbul, a visit to Antique Textile Conservation in Izmir and a stop at the ancient city of Ephesus. (See the August issue of ICS for “Rug Touring in Turkey: Part I.”) 

The Master Rug Cleaner tour continued from Izmir by air to Kayseri and on to Cappadocia, an ancient region mentioned in the Bible. The soft tufa stone of the area was carved into houses, shops and churches and is a protected open-air national museum. The best way to view Cappadocia is by hot air balloon (Image 1). Our stay in Cappadocia ended with rug shopping at the local government-sponsored weaving center, which included a silk rug production exhibit (Image 2).


Machine-Woven Carpet in Europe

Last time, we touched on machine-woven carpet in the United States. The story is incomplete, however, if we ignore how woven carpet developed in Europe. 

In the first half of the 17th century France, with the support of kings Henry IV and Louis XIII, became the center of carpet weaving in Europe with the introduction of Savonnerie carpets (see “French Rugs” in the June 2009 issue). French weaving continued to flourish under the patronage of Louis XIV in the second half of the 17th century. Ironically, an unexpected consequence of Louis XIV’s revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 was the partial collapse of the French carpet industry that he had supported with numerous commissioned projects. A large number of French Protestant (Huguenot) weavers fled France and settled in England, Germany and Belgium. 


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