To Bleach or Not To Bleach?

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During several recent rug seminars, the topic of bleach has become of interest. Should a rug cleaning specialist use bleach? Let’s take a look at this controversial subject.

The WoolSafe Organization has been referenced several times over the years in my columns with regards to their guidelines for testing cleaning products as safe to use on wool. WoolSafe wants products to be free of reducing and oxidizing agents, as they can remove color and, at high concentrations, damage the fiber. However, they do make exceptions for stain removal products allowing peroxide-based oxidizers. It must be noted the organization’s main focus is testing cleaning products for wall-to-wall wool carpet, not oriental rugs.

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Rug Repair: Fringe Work

I recently presented an overview of rug repair and examined a simple side cord repair. This time we will look at the most common repair your customer will need: end or fringe work.

Oriental rugs are made with at least several wefts at the ends. These are essential to lock in the top and bottom rows of knots. There are however many variations in the treatment of ends made by the weaver.

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Oriental Rugs and Water Loss

Due to the series of flooding tragedies in the Midwest, the times seems right to discuss water damage and its impact on Oriental rugs. The homeowner or insurance company may request heroic action due to the potential value of some semi-antique or antique rugs. This is salvage cleaning, and it requires careful pre-qualification with all parties due to the many variables in rug dyes, construction, fibers, type of contaminates, etc. 

With salvage cleaning the results will not be known until after completion of your efforts. A good relationship with the insurance company is critical, as time and materials can be spent without satisfactory results achieved for the insured. Many times, rugs are permanently damaged not from an incident, but from improper handling. 

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Revisiting Moths and Wool Rugs: 10 Years Later

Adult clothes moths do not cause damage - it is the larvae, which actually feed on wool, they produce that cause the problem. There are only two kinds of moths to be concerned with: the webbing moth and the casemaking moth. 



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Editor’s note: The professional rug cleaner’s skill set shouldn’t stop at just rug cleaning. It should extend to include how to identify a common enemy to rugs, as well as how to protect a rug from further damage from these little buggers known as clothes moths. About 10 years ago, ICS’s rug cleaning guru Aaron Groseclose wrote a great piece on how to do just that. It was popular among our readers and is still, to this day, one of the most widely read pieces on ICSmag.com. A decade has gone by and little has changed regarding how to identify moths, the damage they can do as well as how to get rid of them and protect the rug from further damage, so we decided that a refresher was in store. Below you’ll find Groseclose’s story from October 2002:




Adult clothes moths do not cause damage - it is the larvae, which actually feed on wool, they produce that cause the problem. There are only two kinds of moths to be concerned with: the webbing moth and the casemaking moth. Both moths’ larvae spin a silken tube that acts as a protective barrier. The webbing moth larvae attach their tubes to dark crevices or seams, making them stationary to feed in one location. The casemaking moth’s larvae do not attach their tubes, or “cases,” allowing them to remain mobile and cause a larger amount of damage.

The lifecycle of the clothes moth can range from two months to 2 1/2 years. The adults lay eggs on products that the larvae will consume. Each female moth can lay 100 to 150 eggs that hatch in about five days. The larval stage itself can last from two to 30 months.

The lifespan of the moth depends on the availability of food (like wool). That is why moths can be so devastating to rugs. Rugs provide a huge source of food; if gone unnoticed the larvae can feed for almost 2 1/2 years. An infestation of only several weeks can result in pile loss the size of a fist.

Moths and their larvae thrive in the dark, undisturbed areas of a rug that get little traffic and are seldom vacuumed. Moths are attracted to the keratin in animal hair; a dirty rug covered in dog and cat hair is a paradise for moth larvae. They can feed on blends of natural and synthetic fibers, but not on materials made only of synthetic fibers. They also tend not to consume cotton.

Indicators to look for are a lot of flying adult moths - this shows the infestation may be considerable. Look for loose carpet fibers on top of the rug pile - this is a result of the larvae actually eating the knots off the rug foundation. Also, look for the cocoons (slightly fuzzy cylinders 1/8-inch in diameter and 1/2-inch long that are the same color as the rug pile). You may see the actual larvae squirming along the pile surface and underneath the rug.

So how do you get rid of a moth infestation? Start with a thorough, professional in-plant cleaning. The washing removes the larvae and a hot dry room can destroy the eggs. However, an infested rug will bring larvae into close contact with other rugs, which can spread the problem.

The larvae must be killed to prevent migrating from one rug to another. The safest and most effective insecticide a rug cleaner can use is pyrethrum. The product is the oleoresin extract of dried chrysanthemum flowers referred to as pyrethrins. These strongly lipophilic esters rapidly penetrate many insects and paralyze their nervous systems. These materials are contained in various commercial products, commonly dissolved in petroleum distillates. Some are packaged in pressurized bug-bomb containers.



Use a pyrethrum product specifically formulated to kill clothes moths, particularly those in the egg and larval stages. This treatment should be performed to protect the rugs in your care (Note: Do not advertise you are killing insects unless you are a licensed pesticide operator).

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As with applying any material to a rug, first test it in an inconspicuous area. Spray the infested rug thoroughly on the front and back, preferably outside or in a well-ventilated room. Roll the rug up and put it aside for a day to allow time for the pyrethrum to work. Rolling the rug will keep the concentration high and potentially more effective.

The rug is now ready for a typical cleaning. A good vacuuming or a run through a beater/duster will be effective in removing the dead moth matter. The rug should then be washed using a typical in-plant method. If the only cleaning method available is hot-water extraction, be certain to thoroughly clean both sides of the rugs.

Be aware that mothballs, flakes and crystals (naphthalene or paradichloro-benzene) are ineffective in moth control for rugs. These materials act only as a minor repellent to moths; they do not kill moth larvae, and the naphthalene odor can be unpleasant and difficult to remove from the rug. Mothballs are essentially bad. The active ingredients enter the human system through inhalation, and may cause irritation to the nose, throat and lungs. Headaches, confusion, excitement or depression and liver and kidney damage may result from exposure to mothball vapors over a long period of time.

The safest way to protect rugs from infestation is with moth-repelling agents containing magnesium silicofluoride, a moth repellent. It does not kill moths, larvae or the eggs. Instead, it makes the wool less appetizing by changing the taste. It is applied as a spray solution and should thoroughly cover the front and back of the rug. It lasts for up to one year (or until the rug is washed again), has no residual odor and is not harmful to people.

One of the major hurdles to preventing moth damage is consumer education. Too many consumers believe that cleaning is not good for their rugs. People are home less than they ever were before, have less time to care for their rugs (vacuuming, other regular maintenance) and have even less time to inspect dark places such as under furniture for problems. Dirty rugs are targets for moth infestation.

It may be worthwhile to offer these profitable services, but again, do not make claims of killing insects unless you are a licensed pesticide applicator.

Moths: The Enemy of Wool Rugs

  • The larvae actually feed on wool
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The professional rug cleaner should know how to identify the clothes moth, the damage the moths can do, how to get rid of them and how to protect a rug from further damage.

Adult clothes moths do not cause damage; it is the larvae they produce that cause the problem. The larvae actually feed on wool (Image 1). There are only two kinds of moths to be concerned with: the webbing moth and the casemaking moth. Both moths’ larvae spin a silken tube that acts as a protective barrier. The webbing moth larvae attach their tubes to dark crevices or seams, making them stationary to feed in one location. The casemaking moth’s larvae do not attach their tubes, or “cases,” allowing them to remain mobile and cause a larger amount of damage.

Read more...

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